D204

StandardTestMethodsfor

SewingThreads1ThisstandardisissuedunderthefixeddesignationD204;thenumberimmediatelyfollowingthedesignationindicatestheyearoforiginaladoptionor,inthecaseofrevision,theyearoflastrevision.Anumberinparenthesesindicatestheyearoflastreapproval.Asuperscriptepsilon(e)indicatesaneditorialchangesincethelastrevisionorreapproval.ThisstandardhasbeenapprovedforusebyagenciesoftheDepartmentofDefense.

1.Scope

1.1Thesetestmethodscanbeusedtoevaluatesewingthreadsofanyfiber.

1.1.1Thetestmethodsinthisstandardareintendedtoevaluateonlysewingthreadtakenfromthreadholders.

1.2Thesetestmethodsonlyprovideforthemeasurementofsewingthreadphysicalproperties.Thesetestmethodsdonotaddressanyotherpropertiesthatmaybeimportantforthesatisfactoryperformanceofsewingthreadsunderparticularenduseconditions.

1.3Thesetestmethodscanbeusedtomeasurethefollow-ingproperties:

ColorfastnesstoDrycleaningColorfastnesstoLaundering

ColorfastnesstoWaterMigrationDiameter

LengthperThreadHolderShrinkage,SingleStrandDryHeatBoilingWater

StrengthandElongation

SingleStrand—ConditionedSingleStrand—WetLoopStrengthKnotStrengthTwist

TwistBalanceYarnNumber

Sections73-8362-7284-9443-5034-4251-6158.158.215-2119.1.119.1.219.219.322-2728-337-14

NOTE1—Formethodscoveringtestsonpreparedseams,refertoTestMethodsD1683andD3940.21.4ThevaluesstatedinSIunitsaretoberegardedasstandard;thevaluesinEnglishunitsareprovidedasinforma-tiononlyandarenotexactequivalents.

1.5Thisstandarddoesnotpurporttoaddressallofthesafetyconcerns,ifany,associatedwithitsuse.Itistheresponsibilityoftheuserofthisstandardtoestablishappro-priatesafetyandhealthpracticesanddeterminetheapplica-bilityofregulatorylimitationspriortouse.

ThesetestmethodsareunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesandarethedirectresponsibilityofSubcommitteeD13.58onYarnsandFibers.

CurrenteditionapprovedSept.10,2002.PublishedNovember2002.OriginallypublishedasD204–24T.LastpreviouseditionD204–97.2AnnualBookofASTMStandards,Vol07.02.

12.ReferencedDocuments2.1ASTMStandards:

D76SpecificationforTensileTestingMachinesforTex-tiles3D123TerminologyRelatingtoTextiles3D1422TestMethodforTwistinSingleSpunYarnsbytheUntwist-RetwistMethod3D1423TestMethodforTwistinYarnsbyDirect-Counting3D1683TestMethodforFailureInSewnSeamsofWovenFabrics3D1776PracticeforConditioningandTestingTextiles3D1777TestMethodforThicknessofTextileMaterials3D1907TestMethodforLinearDesnisty(YarnNumber)bytheSkeinMethod3D2256TestMethodforTensilePropertiesofYarnsbytheSingle-StrandMethod3D2258PracticeforSamplingYarnforTesting3D2724TestMethodsforBonded,Fused,andLaminatedApparelFabrics3D3693SpecificationforLabeledLengthperHolderofSewingThreads2D3823PracticeforDeterminingTicketNumbersforSew-ingThreads2D3940TestMethodforBurstingStrength(Load)andElongationofSewnSeamsofKnitorWovenStretchTextileFabrics2D4848TerminologyofForce,DeformationandRelatedPropertiesofTextiles2D4849TerminologyRelatingtoYarnsandFibers2D6193PracticeforStitchesandSeams22.2AATCCStandards:

TestMethod135DimensionalChangesinAutomaticHomeLaunderingofWovenandKnitFabrics4EvaluationProcedure1,GrayScaleforColorChange4EvaluationProcedure3,ChromaticTransferenceScale43.Terminology3.1Definitions:

AnnualBookofASTMStandards,Vol07.01.

AvailablefromAmericanAssociationofTextileChemistsandColorists,P.O.Box12215,ResearchTrianglePark,NC27709.

43Copyright©ASTMInternational,100BarrHarborDrive,POBoxC700,WestConshohocken,PA19428-2959,UnitedStates.

1

D204–02

3.1.1RefertoTerminologyD4848fordefinitionsofthefollowingtermsusedinthisstandardelongation;forceandloop-breakingforce.

3.1.2RefertoTerminologyD4849fordefinitionsofthefollowingtermsusedinthisstandardcolorfastness;coveredyarn,greigethread,growth,sew,sewingforce,sewingthread,tex,threadholder,ticketnumber,andyarnnumber.

3.1.3RefertoTerminologyD123fordefinitionsofothertermsusedinthisstandardincludingthefollowing;shrinkage,stitch,stitching,stitchtype,andtwistbalance.

4.SignificanceandUse

4.1AcceptanceTesting—ThetestmethodsinTestMethodsD204forthedeterminationofthepropertiesofsewingthreadareconsideredsatisfactoryforacceptancetestingofcommer-cialshipmentsofsewingthread,unlessspecifiedintheindividualtestmethod.Thesetestmethodsarethebestavailableandareusedextensivelyinthetrade.

4.1.1Iftherearedifferencesofpracticalsignificancebe-tweenreportedtestresultsfortwolaboratories(ormore)comparativetestshouldbeperformedtodetermineifthereisastatisticalbiasbetweenthemusingcompetentstatisticalassis-tance.Asaminimum,usethesamplesforsuchacomparativeteststhatareashomogeneousaspossible,drawnfromthesamelotofmaterialasthesamplesthatresultedindisparateresultsduringinitialtestingandrandomlyassignedinequalnumberstoeachlaboratory.Thetestresultsfromthelaboratoriesinvolvedshouldbecomparedusingastatisticaltestforunpaireddata,aprobabilitylevelchosenpriortothetestingseries.Ifabiasisfound,eitheritscausemustbefoundandcorrected,orfuturetestresultsforthatmaterialmustbeadjustedinconsiderationoftheknownbias.

5.Sampling

5.1LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,takeatrandomthenumberofshippingunitsdirectedinanapplicablematerialspecificationorotheragreementbetween

thepurchaserandthesupplier,suchasanagreementtousePracticeD2258.Considershippingcasesorothershippingunitstobetheprimarysamplingunits.

NOTE2—Anadequatespecificationorotheragreementbetweenthepurchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetweenshippingunits,betweenpackages,orendswithinashippingunit,andbetweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplanwithameaningfulproducer’srisk,consumer’srisk,acceptablequalitylevel,andlimitingqualitylevel.

5.2LaboratorySample—Asalaboratorysampleforaccep-tancetesting,takeatrandomfromeachshippingunitinthelotsamplethenumberofpackagesorendsdirectedinanapplicablematerialspecificationorotheragreementtousePracticeD2258.Preferably,thesamenumberofpackagesshouldbetakenfromeachshippingunitinthelotsample.Ifdifferingnumbersofpackagesaretobetakenfromshippingunitsinthelotsample,determineatrandomwhichshippingunitsaretohaveeachnumberofpackagesdrawn.

5.3TestSpecimens—Fromeachpackageinthelaboratorysample,takethreespecimens,unlessotherwisespecified.Whenpackagescontainmorethanoneparallelwoundend,selectoneendfromwhichtopreparethethreespecimens.6.Conditioning

6.1Forroutinetesting,conditionthesamplesasdirectedinPracticeD1776.

6.2Whenpreconditioningisspecifiedinamaterialspecifi-cationorcontractorderpreconditionthepreparedspecimensforatleast3hinanatmospherewithrelativehumiditybetween10and25%andatemperaturenotexceeding50°C(122°F)asdirectedinPracticeD1776.

6.2.1Afterpreconditioning,exposethespecimenstomov-ingairinthestandardatmospherefortestingtextiles,2161°C(7062°F)and6562%relativehumidity,untilthemassofthespecimen(s)increasesbynomorethan0.1%after2hinthestandardatmosphere.

YARNNUMBER

7.Scope

7.1Thistestmethoddeterminestheresultantyarnnumberofalltypesofsewingthreadstakenfromathreadholder.8.SummaryofTestMethod

8.1Ameasuredlengthofconditionedthreadiswoundonareelandweighed.Theresultantyarnnumberisexpressedintex.

9.SignificanceandUse

9.1ThistestmethodshouldbeusedtoestablishstandardticketnumbersforsewingthreadsaccordingtoPracticeD3823.10.Apparatus10.1Reel:

2

10.1.1General—Ahandormotor-drivenreelhavingaspecifiedperimeter.Thereelshallbefittedwithatraversingmechanismthatwillavoidbunchingthesuccessivewraps,andwithanindicatorofthelengthwound.Awarningbellthatwillringataspecifiedlengthisrecommended.Itisadvisablethatonearmbecollapsibletoallowforeasyremovalofskeins.10.2Balance:

10.2.1Forthedeterminationofmeanyarnnumber,abalanceofsuitablecapacitygraduatedingramswithasensi-tivityof1partin100.

10.2.2Forascertainingthecompletionofconditioning,abalanceofsuitablecapacitygraduatedingramswithasensi-tivityof1partin1000needed.

11.Conditioning

11.1UseskeinswoundwiththegivenwrapsasnotedinTable1andfollowthedirectionsgiveninSection6.

D204–02

TABLE1NumberofWrapsforDeterminingResultantYarn

Number

ResultantYarnNumberAllthreadfinerthan250texAllthreads250texandcoarser

1-mReelPerimeter

100wraps100m10wraps10m

1.5ydReelPerimeter80wraps120yd8wraps12yd

12.Procedure

12.1DeterminetheresultantyarnnumberintexasdirectedinOption1ofTestMethodD1907,exceptthatinplaceofTable2inD1907useTable1ofTestMethodsD204.13.Report

13.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s)orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

13.2Reportthefollowinginformation:

13.2.1Meanyarnnumbertothreesignificantfigures,

13.2.2Coefficientofvariationofyarnnumbertotwosignificantfigures,

13.2.3Reelperimeter,

13.2.4Lengthofskein,and13.2.5Numberofspecimens.

14.PrecisionandBias

14.1TheprecisionandbiasfortestingyarnnumberareasgiveninTestMethodD1907.

TABLE2NumberofWrapstobeReeledinAnyOneSkeinin

CheckingLengthbySkeinMethod

ResultantYarnNumberAllthreadfinerthan50texThreadsof50texupto100texAllthreads100texandcoarser

1-mReelPerimeter

200wraps200m100wraps100m50wraps50m

1.5ydReelPerimeter200wraps300yd100wraps150yd50wraps75yd

STRENGTHANDELONGATION

15.Scope

15.1Thistestmethodcanbeusedtodeterminesinglestrandbreakingforceandelongationofsewingthreads.Singlestrandtestingincludesloopstrength,knotstrengthandelongationatsewingforces.

16.SummaryofTestMethod

16.1Singlestrandyarnspecimensarebrokenonatensiletestingmachineatapredeterminedelongationrateandthetensilepropertiesaredetermined.

16.2Thetestmethodoffersthefollowingthreephysicalconfigurationsofthespecimen:16.2.1straight,16.2.2looped,16.2.3knotted.

17.SignificanceandUse

17.1Thereareseveralpropertiesofsewingthreadthataresignificantwithregardstosewingandseamperformance,including:straightbreakingstrength,loopbreakingstrength,loopelongation,elongationatsewingforce,andknotstrength.17.1.1StraightStrength—Thestraightbreakingstrengthofathreadcanbeusedtocalculatetheloopbreakingstrengthoncearegressionequationhasbeendeterminedbecausethelooppropertiesarestronglydependentonthestraightstrength.17.1.2LoopStrength—Theloopbreakingstrengthisameasureofthethread’sabilitytocontributetoseamperfor-mance.Loopbreakingstrengthofathreadbearsadirectrelationshiptostitchbreakingstrengthandhencetoseambreakingstrength.

17.1.3LoopElongation—Theloopelongationofthethreadisoneimportantfactorcontributingtoelongationofaseam,alongwiththestitchandseamtype,thenumberofstitchesperinch,andthenatureofthematerialstitched.

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17.1.4ElongationatSewingForce—Theelongationatsewingforceofathreadinfluencesitsbehaviorduringthestitchingcycleonasewingmachine.

17.1.5KnotStrength—Thereductioninbreakingforceduetothepresenceofaknotisconsideredameasureofthebrittlenessofthethread.18.Conditioning

18.1ConditionthespecimensasdirectedinSection6oftheseTestMethodsD204.19.Procedure

19.1StraightStrengthandElongation:

19.1.1ConditionedThreads—SelectconditionedspecimensanddeterminebreakingforceandelongationasdirectedinOptionA1ofTestMethodD2256exceptthata25063mm(10.060.1in.)or50065mm(20.060.2in.)gagelengthandaconstant-rate-of-extension(CRE)typetensiletestingmachinehavingajawseparationrateof300610mm/min(12.060.5in./min)shallbeused.Disregardthe20stobreakrequirement.

19.1.2WetThreads—Selectconditionedspecimensandde-terminethebreakingforceandelongationasdirectedinOptionA2ofTestMethodD2256exceptthataCREtypetestingmachinehavingajawseparationrateof300610mm/min(12.060.5in./min)shallbeused.Disregardthe20stobreakrequirement.

19.2LoopStrength—Selectconditionedspecimensandde-terminetheloopbreakingforceasdirectedinOptionC1ofTestMethodD2256.Disregardthe20stobreak.

19.3KnotStrength—Selectconditionedspecimensandde-terminetheknotbreakingforceasdirectedinOptionB1ofTestMethodD2256.Disregardthe20stobreak.

D204–02

19.4ElongationatSewingForces—Testthespecimensasdirectedforconditionedthreadin19.1.1.Readtheelongationfromtheforceelongationchartordisplayattheforcespecifiedfortheneedlethreadoftheseamtobesewn.

19.4.1Iftheforceontheneedlethreadisnotknown,aguidelineforsewingelongationcanbeobtainedbyreadingtheforce-extensionchart,ordisplayataforceof227g(1⁄2lb)forthreadusedforseamsinlight-weightfabricsinthe0.135to270g/m3,or(4to8oz/yd3)rangeandataforceof340g(3⁄4lb)forthreadusedforseamsinheavyfabrics270to0.520g/m3(8to15oz/yd3).

20.Report

20.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s)orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

20.2Reportthefollowinginformation:20.2.1OptionsifotherthanA1,

20.2.2TestingmachinetypeifotherthanCRE,20.2.3Gagelengthtested,

20.2.4Numberofspecimenstested,

20.2.5Theaverageofthebreakingforcesforasampleisthesamplebreakingstrength.

20.2.6Averageandcoefficientofvariationofpercentelon-gationatbreakoratspecifiedforceasdeterminedforsingle-strand,knotandloopconfigurations,and

20.2.7Averageelongationatsewingforces,loopelonga-tion,eitherorboth,ifdetermined.

21.PrecisionandBias

21.1Theprecisionandbiasfortestingstrengthandelonga-tionaregiveninTestMethodD2256.

TWIST

22.Scope

22.1Thistestmethoddeterminestheamountanddirectionoftwistatthecompletionofanystageoftwistinginsingle(spunorfilament),plied,orcabledthread.Theproceduresaredesignedprimarilyforthreadonholders.

23.SummaryofTestMethod

23.1Theturnsoftwistinaknownlengthofthreadarecountedastheyarebeingremovedbyrotatingoneendofthespecimenwhiletheotherendremainsfixeduntiltheelementsoftheyarnbeingtestedareparallelandfreefromtwist.Twistisreportedasthenumberofturnsrequiredtountwistthethread,perunitlength.

24.SignificanceandUse

24.1Twistisanimportantfactorfordeterminingtheabilityofasewingthreadtowithstandsewingforcesandprovidestrengthtotheseam.

25.Procedure

25.1Determinetheamountoftwistinthecomponentelementsofaplied,orcabledthreadmadeontheLinen,orWorstedSpinningSystemasdirectedinTestMethodD1423,excepttaketheconditionedspecimendirectlyfromthesideofthethreadholderfortesting.

25.2Determinetheamountofplytwistinaplied,orthecomponentelementsofacabledthreadmadeontheCottonSpinningSystemasdirectedinTestMethodD1423,excepttaketheconditionedspecimendirectlyfromthesideofthethreadholderfortesting.DeterminethesinglestwistasdirectedinTestMethodD1422.

26.Report

26.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerialorproducesampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

26.2Reportthefollowinginformation:

26.2.1Averagesingle,plied,andcabledthreadtwistinturnspermetretothenearestwholenumberofturnsperinchtoonedecimal.

26.2.2Standarddeviationandcoefficientofvariation,ifcalculated,

26.2.3Directionofeachtwist,SorZ.

26.2.4Lengthoftestspecimens,inmillimetresorinches.26.2.5Tensionused,ifdifferentfromthatspecifiedinTestMethodsD1423orD1422.

27.PrecisionandBias

27.1TheprecisionandbiasfortwisttestingaregiveninTestMethodsD1422andD1423asapplicable..

4

D204–02

TWISTBALANCE

28.Scope

28.1Thistestmethoddeterminesthetendencyofthreadtotwistonitselfwhenheldinloopform.

29.SummaryofTestMethod

29.1Thethreadisheldinloopformanditstendencytotwistisnoted.

30.SignificanceandUse

30.1Thistestmethodisimportantinpredictingthekinkingandsnarlingtendencyofthreadduringactualsewingopera-tion.

31.Procedure

31.1Withdrawapproximately1m(1yd)ofconditionedthreadfromtheholderinthesamemannerasthatinwhichthethreadisdeliveredtothesewingmachine.Cutthethreadandformthesegmentinaloopwiththefreeendsapproximately100mm(4in.)apart.Suspendtheloopinadraft-freeenvironmentandletthethreadtwistonitselfuntilitcomestorest.

31.2Countthenumberofcompleterevolutionsmadebythethreadasanindicationoftwistbalance.

NOTE3—Atwisttestermaybeusedtodeterminethenumberofrevolutions.

32.Report

32.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s)orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

32.2Reportthenumberofcompleterevolutionsspecimenandtheaverageofallspecimens.

33.PrecisionandBias

33.1Precision—ForthecomponentsofvarianceinTable3,twoaveragesofobservedvaluesshouldbeconsideredsignifi-cantlydifferentatthe90%probabilitylevelifthedifferenceequalsorexceedsthecriticaldifferencestabulatedinTable4.33.2Bias—Thisprocedureformeasuringtwistbalancehasnoknownbiasbecausethevalueofthetwistpropertiescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

TABLE3ComponentsofVarianceasStandardDeviations,Units

asIndicated

NamesofPropertiesTwistbalance,turnsLength,mDiameter,mm

Shrinkage,wetordrypercentagepoints

Single-OperatorComponent

0.01001.690.0250.310

Within-LaboratoryComponent0.01000.0000.0250.310

BetweenLaboratoryComponent0.2001.670.0250.340

LENGTHPERTHREADHOLDER

34.Scope

34.1Thistestmethoddeterminessewingthreadlengthswoundonathreadholder.

35.SummaryofTestMethod

35.1Thelengthofsewingthreadonathreadholderismeasuredbywindingthethreadfromthethreadholderontoareelofknownperimeterintoskeinsofspecifiedwraps(seeTable2)andanyresidualpartskeinsandcountedwraps.Thetotallengthisthesumofthefullskeinsandlengthofanypartskein.

36.SignificanceandUse

36.1Thistestmethodisusedtoestablishthelengthperthreadholderwhenthreadisbeingsoldonalengthbasis.37.Apparatus37.1Reel:

37.1.1General—Ahandormotor-drivenreelhavingaspecifiedperimeter.Thereelshallbefittedwithatraversingmechanismthatwillavoidbunchingthesuccessivewraps,andwithanindicatorofthelengthwound.Awarningbellthatwillringataspecifiedlengthisrecommended.Itisadvisablethatonearmbecollapsibletoallowforeasyremovalofskeins.38.Sampling

38.1SampleasdirectedinSpecificationD3693.

39.Procedure

39.1DeterminethetensionforreelingasdirectedinTestMethodD1907.Thethreadneednotbemeasuredforlengthperthreadholderinthestandardatmospherefortestingtextiles.

39.2RemovethethreadfromtheholderbyreelingskeinshavingthelengthspecifiedinTable2.Determinethelengthofthefinalpartskeininmetres(yards)bycountingthenumberof

5

D204–02

TABLE4CriticalDifference,AUnitsasIndicated,fortheConditionsnoted

NameofProperties

Twistbalance,turns

NumberObservationsin

EachAverage

13510135101351013510

Single-OperatorPrecision

0.02320.01340.01040.007353.932.271.761.240.0580.0340.0260.0180.7210.4160.3220.228

WithinLaboratory

Precision

0.03290.02680.02540.02443.932.271.761.240.0820.0670.0640.0611.020.8330.7900.756

BetweenLaboratory

Precision

0.4660.4660.4660.4665.534.504.264.080.1000.0890.0860.0841.291.151.121.09

Length,m

Diameter,mm

Shrinkage,wetordrypercentagepoints

AThecriticaldifferenceswerecalculatedusingt=1.645,whichisbasedoninfinitedegreesoffreedom.

completerevolutionsofthereelandbymeasuringthelengthofthelastpartialwraptothenearest0.1m(4in.).

40.Calculation

40.1Calculatethetotallengthofeachthreadholdertothenearest1m(1yd)forholderswithnominallengthinexcessof100m(150yd)andtothenearest0.1m(4in.)forholderswithnominallengthof100m(150yd)orless,usingEq1:

Lengthofthreadholder,m5A6B6C

(1)

41.Report

41.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s),orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

41.2Reporttheindividuallengthsperholder,andtheaveragelengthbasedonthelengthsonalltheholderstested.42.PrecisionandBias

42.1Precision—ForthecomponentsofvarianceinTable3,twoaveragesofobservedvaluesshouldbeconsideredsignifi-cantlydifferentinthe90%probabilitylevelifthedifferenceequalsorexceedsthecriticaldifferencestabulatedinTable4.42.2Bias—Thisprocedureformeasuringlengthperthreadholderhasnoknownbiasbecausethevalueofthelengthpropertiescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

where:

A=numberofwholeskeinstimeslengthperskein,

B=numberofcompletewrapsinlastpartialskeintimes

metresperwrapand,

C=lengthoflastpartialwraponthereel,m(yd).

40.2Calculatetheaveragelengthperholderofsewingthreadforthelotsample.

DIAMETER

43.Scope

43.1Thistestmethoddeterminesthreaddiametereitherbyathicknessgage(preferredprocedure)orbyopticalmeasure-ments.

44.SummaryofTestMethod

44.1Segmentsofthreadareplacedonthestageofathicknessgageandthediameteristhethicknessreadfromthegage.Optionally,segmentsofthreadareplacedonarotatablemicroscopestageandtheirdiametersaremeasuredusingacalibratedeyepiece.

45.SignificanceandUse

45.1Aknowledgeofthreaddiameterisimportantbecausediametercanaffectsewingperformanceandseamappearance.Sewingperformancecanbeaffectedbecausethethreadisrequiredtopassthroughrestrictionssuchastheneedleeyeandtensiondisks.Seamappearancecanbeadverselyaffectedwhenthediameterofthethreadislargeenoughtodisplacefabricyarnandresultinapuckeredseam.

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45.1.1Threaddiameterisalsoaconsiderationwhenselect-ingsewingthreadsforembroidery,contraststitching,orotherdecorativeapplicationssincecoverisimportantwithsuchthreads.

45.2AcceptanceTesting—Theopticalprocedurefortestingsewingthreadsfordiameterisnotrecommendedforaccep-tancetestingofcommercialshipmentssincetheopticalproce-duresuffersfromdifficultyindeterminingtheexactboundariesofthreadshavingprotrudingfibersonthesurface.

46.Apparatus

46.1ThicknessGageProcedure:

46.1.1Thicknessgage,asdescribedinTestMethodD1777,withapresserfootdiameterof9.5260.02mm(0.37560.001in.).Thepresserfootandmovingpartsconnectedtherewithshallbeweightedtoapplyatotalforceof1.6760.03N(660.1oz)equivalenttoapressureof23.4kPa(3.5psi).46.2OpticalProcedure:

46.2.1Microscope,havingastagethatcanberotatedtobringthethreadparalleltothemovablecrosshairinthe

D204–02

eyepiece,amagnificationtoallowthethreadtocoverapproxi-matelyonequarterofthefieldofview,andeitheramicrometereyepiecewithascale,orafilarmicrometereyepiece.

46.2.2MountingPlate,withclipsorothermeanssuitableforholdingthreadataconstanttensionsufficienttoremoveslackwithoutstretchingthespecimenwhileitismeasuredonthemicroscopestage.

47.Procedure

47.1ThicknessGage:

47.1.1Drawthethreadfromthesideoftheholder,takingcarenottodisturbthetwist.Placefourstrandsofthethreadsidebysideontheanvilandapproximatelymid-waybetweenthesidesofthepresserfootofthethicknessgage.

47.1.2Readthethicknessfromthegageindicatortothenearest0.02mm(0.001in.)andrecordthisasthediameterofthethread.

47.1.3Removeatleast300mm(12in.)ofthreadfromtheholder.

47.1.4Repeat47.1.1-47.1.3toobtainatotaloftenreadings.47.2Optical:

47.2.1Drawthethreadfromthesideoftheholder,takingcarenottodisturbthetwist.Mountthethreadonthemovablestageofthemicroscopeusingthemountingplate.Takecarethatnochangeintwistoccursandthatthetensionappliedissufficienttoremoveslackwithoutappreciablystretchingthethread.Rotatethestageuntilthethreadisparalleltothemovablecrosshair.

47.2.2Determinethediameterofthethreadtothenearest0.02mm(0.001in.)asthedifferenceinthemicrometersettingswhenthecrosshairismovedfromoneedgeofthethreadtotheother.

47.2.3Repeat47.2.1and47.2.2foratotalof20measure-mentsonsegmentsofthreadseparatedbyatleast300mm(12in.).

48.Calculation

48.1Calculatetheaverageofthetenthicknessgagevaluesrecordedin47.1or20opticallymeasuredvaluesrecordedin47.2foreachthreadholdertothenearest0.02mm(0.001in.).48.2Calculatetheaverageforthelottothenearest0.02mm(0.001in.).49.Report

49.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s)orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

49.2Reportthefollowinginformation:49.2.1Theprocedureused,

49.2.2Theaveragediameterofthesewingthreadoneachthreadholder,and

49.2.3Theaveragediameterofthesewingthreadinthelot.50.PrecisionandBias

50.1Precision—ForthecomponentsofvarianceinTable3,twoaveragesofobservedvaluesshouldbeconsideredsignifi-cantlydifferentatthe90%probabilitylevelifthedifferenceequalsorexceedsthecriticaldifferencestabulatedinTable4.50.2Bias—Thisprocedureformeasuringdiameterhasnoknownbiasbecausethevalueofthediameterpropertiescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

SHRINKAGE,SINGLESTRAND

51.Scope

51.1Thistestmethoddeterminessinglestrandthreadshrinkageduetoexposuretoboilingwaterordryheat.52.SummaryofTestMethod

52.1Aconditionedsinglestrandofthreadistiedinaloopandmeasuredunderaprescribedtensioningforcebeforeandafterexposuretoboilingwaterordryheat.Thechangeinlengthisexpressedasapercentageofthelengthbeforeexposure.

53.SignificanceandUse

53.1Shrinkageinsewingthreadisofinterestbecauseitcancausepuckeringalongseams,adverselyaffectingseamappear-ance.

53.1.1Aknowledgeoftheshrinkageinsewingthreadbyitselfisnotasoundbasisforpredictingtheeffectthethreadshrinkagewillhaveonseamshrinkage.Anycombinationofthefollowingcanaltertheeffectsofsewingthreadshrinkageontheseam:theconstructionandmassoftheseamedfabric,thenatureoftheseamassembly,orthetensionsonthesewingthreadduringthesewingoperation.

7

54.Apparatus

54.1VerticalStandwithHook—Astandtowhichisaffixedameasuringscalewiththehooklocatedatthetopofthemeasuringscalesothatthetopofaloopofthreadwhenhungonthehookwillcoincidewiththezeroindexofthemeasuringscale.

54.2MeasuringScale,graduatedinincrementsof1mm.54.3RollerWringerorCentrifugalExtractor.

54.4DryingOven—Aventilateddryingovenmaintainedatatemperatureof6563°C(15065°F)inwhichthespecimensarenotexposedtodirectradiationfromtheheatingunits.54.5TensioningWeights,accurateto1partin1000,andhavingthemassneededfortheyarnnumberofthespecimen.(See52.1).

54.6MetalHook,designedtohangfromthespecimenandshapedtoreceivethetensioningweights.Themassofthehookistobeincludedindeterminingthetensionforceappliedtothespecimen.

54.7TreatingOven—Aforced-draft,quick-recoveryoventhatcanbemaintainedat17663°C(35065°F)inwhichtheyarnspecimensarenotexposedtodirectradiationfromtheheatingunits.

D204–02

55.NumberofTestSpecimens

55.1Takethreespecimensfromeachlaboratorysampleunit.

NOTE4—Eachspecimenshouldbetakenatpointsseparatedfromeachotherbyatleast90m(100yd).

56.PreparationofTestSpecimens

56.1Afterdiscardingtheouter-layerofthreadfromtheholder,removeanapproximately1200mm(47in.)lengthofthreadfromtheholderandformaloopbyknottingtheendstogether.

56.2Placethespecimenonthehookoftheverticalstandandpositiontheknottorestonthehook.Usingcarethattheloopdoesnottwistbackuponitself,hangthemetalhookandappropriatetensioningweightsonthefreeendoftheloop.56.2.1Selecttheappropriateweight(s)forapplyingaten-sioningforceequalto10mN/tex(1g/den)basedonthetex(denier)oftheoriginalstrand.

56.3Measurethelengthofthelooptothenearest1mm(0.04in.),whiletheloopisundertension.

57.Conditioning

57.1ConditionsamplesinthestandardatmospherefortestingtextilesasdirectedinPracticeD1776foraperiodof1⁄2hwhenmoistureregainis2%orless,andpreconditionandconditionperPracticeD1776whentheregainexceeds2%.58.Procedure

58.1ShrinkageinDryHeat:

58.1.1Preheatthetreatingovento17663°C(35065°F).Thensuspendthespecimenfreelyfromastationaryobjectorrackinsidetheoven.Loopsshouldnotbenearthesidesoftheoven,orallowedtotouchthem.Aftertheovenreturnstotemperature,exposethespecimenfor3062min.

58.1.2RemovethespecimenfromtheovenandconditionitasdirectedinSection57.

58.1.3Remeasurethelooplengthsasdirectedin56.2and56.3.

58.2ShrinkageinBoilingWater:

58.2.1WrapthespecimenspreparedandmeasuredinSec-tion56incheesecloth.

58.2.2Prepareabath,madeupofavolumeoftapwater,inmillilitres,thatisatleast40timesthemass,ingrams,ofthespecimenandthecheeseclothwrapper.

58.2.3Immersethewrappedspecimensintheboilingwaterandcontinueboilingfor3062min.Keepthewrappedspecimenimmersedinthebaththroughouttheboilingperiod.58.2.4Removethecheeseclothwithspecimensfromthebathandcentrifugeitorpassitthrougharollerwringer.Then,removethespecimensfromthecheesecloth,drytheminthedryingovenat65°C(150°F)for1h,andconditionthemasdirectedinSection57.

58.2.5Remeasurethelooplengthsasdirectedin56.2and56.3.

59.Calculation

59.1Calculatetheshrinkageofeachtestspecimentothenearest0.1%usingEq2:

Shrinkage,%5[~L2F!/L]3100

(2)

where:

L=originallooplength,andF=looplengthafterexposure.

59.1.1WhenFisgreaterthanLduetogrowth,use(L−F)inEq2andreportthecalculatedgrowth.

59.2Calculatetheaverageshrinkage,orgrowthforthelottothenearest0.1%.60.Report

60.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerial(s)orproduct(s)sampledandthemethodofsamplingused.

60.2Reportthefollowinginformation:

60.2.1Exposureconditions,whethertodryheatortoboilingwater.

60.2.2Averageshrinkage,orgrowthand60.2.3Numberofspecimenstested.61.PrecisionandBias

61.1Precision—ForthecomponentsofvarianceinTable3,twoaveragesofobservedvaluesshouldbeconsideredsignifi-cantlydifferentatthe90%probabilitylevelifthedifferencestabulatedinTable4.

61.2Bias—Thisprocedureformeasuringshrinkage,singleend,hasnoknownbiasbecausethevalueoftheshrinkagepropertiescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

8

D204–02

COLORFASTNESSTOLAUNDERING

62.Scope

62.1Thistestmethoddeterminesthealterationinshadeandofstainingbysewingthreadunderconditionssimilartothatexperiencedindomesticwashingofapparelandothertextileendproducts.Thistestmethodisapplicabletosewingthreadsmadefromnaturalorman-madefibers,ortocombinationsofthem.

63.SummaryofTestMethod

63.1Sewingthreadincontactwithamultifibertestclothislaunderedinhomelaundryanddryingequipmentwithorwithoutbleachunderconditionsintendedtoreproducetheeffectofhomelaunderingonsewingthread.ThealterationinshadeofthesewingthreadandthedegreeofstainingofthemultifibertestclotharegradedbyreferencetotheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeortotheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale,asappropriate.

64.SignificanceandUse

64.1Thistestmethodisnotnecessarilyusefulfortheevaluationofsewingthreadtobeusedfordecorativestitchingsuchasembroidery.

65.Apparatus

65.1AutomaticWashingMachine,5with“NormalSetting”agitatorspeedof7065cycles/min,washingtime12min,spinspeed500to510rpm,finalspincycle4min,andrinsetemperature4165°C(105610°F).

65.2AutomaticTumbleDryer,6withcontrolledexhausttemperaturewhichcyclesfrom60to71°C(140to160°F)andacoolingperiodwhiletumbling5minattheendofthedryingcycle.

66.ReagentsandMaterials

66.1AATCCMultifiberTestFabricNo.18.766.2Anyhouseholdlaundrydetergent.66.3Bleach:

66.3.1Anyliquidchlorinehouseholdtypecontaining5.25%sodiumhypochloride(5%availablechlorine).

66.3.2Anydrynonchlorinehouseholdtypebasedonso-diumperborate/sodiumcarbonate(pHofa1%solutionshouldbe10.7to11.3).

67.Sampling

67.1LotSample—Takeatrandomonecontainerfromadyelot.

67.2LaboratorySample—Takeatrandomonethreadholderfromthecontainer.

67.3TestSpecimens—Prepareonetestspecimenandonecontrolfromeachthreadholder.

68.PreparationofTestSpecimens

68.1Sewthreeparallellinesofstitchingona50mm(2in.)squareofAATCCNo.10MultifiberTestFabricusingthreadfromathreadholderandatype301stitch.Thethreadneednotbeacontinuouslengthbutshouldbetakenfromthesameholder.Thestitchingshouldbeperpendiculartothestripesandcompletelyacrossthemultifiberfabricwith8stitchesper25mm(8stitchesperinch)unlessotherwiseagreeduponbetweenthepurchaserandsupplier.Thestitchlinesshouldbespacedapproximately10mm(0.40in.)apart,withthefirstlinestartingabout15mm(5⁄8in.)infromthetestfabricedge.68.2Preparetwospecimensfromeachthreadholder,retain-ingoneforcomparisoninevaluatingthetestresults.69.Procedure

69.1LaundereachspecimenfortestingasdirectedinAATCCTestMethod135usingamachinecyclesettingof“Normal”;exceptusethewatertemperatureandbleachcon-ditionfromTable5ofTestMethodsD204andanyhouseholdlaundrydetergentinplaceoftheAATCCdetergentspecified.Thewatertemperature,bleachconditions,anddetergentusedshallbeasagreeduponbythepurchaserandsupplier.Whenchlorinebleachisused,introduce240mL(1cup)intothewasherinthemannerdirectedonthebleachcontainer.Whennonchlorinebleachisused,introduceitintothewaterintheamountandmannerdirectedonthebleachcontainer.

69.2DryspecimensusingprocedureAinTable1,andthesettingconditionslistedunder“Cotton/Sturdy”inTableIIIofAATCCTestMethod135.

NOTE5—Ithasbeenfoundthatthereisnoappreciabledifferenceinstainingregardlessofwhichhouseholdlaundrydetergentisused.Becauseofdifferencesinwaterhardness,differentdetergentsmayaffectshadebecauseofvaryingdegreesofdepositionfromthehardwater.However,thedepositionwouldbethesameontheentireiteminwhichthethreadwassewn.

69.3Repeatthewashing-dryingprocedurethroughtwoadditionalcyclesorasagreeduponbythepurchaserandsupplier.

70.Evaluation

70.1Gradeeachspecimenforchangeincolorfromthecontroltothenearestone-halfratingunitasdirectedinAATCCEvaluationProcedure1.

70.2Gradeeachspecimenforchangeindegreeofstainingfromthecontroltothenearestone-halfratingunitasdirectedinAATCCEvaluationProcedure3.

TABLE5LaunderingConditions

MachineWashingTemperature

No.13065°CNo.24065°CNo.36065°C

BleachCondition(a)chlorinebleach(b)nonchlorinebleach(c)nobleach

AKenmoreAutomaticWasherhasbeenacceptedasthestandardmachine.Source:Sears,RoebuckandCo.FormodelnumberandnearestCommercialSalesDepartment,writeAATCC,P.O.Box12215,ResearchTrianglePark,NC27709.Anyotherwasherwhichisknowntogivecomparableresultsmaybeused.6AKenmoreElectricDryerhasbeenacceptedasthestandardmachine.Source:Sears,RoebuckandCo.FormodelnumberandnearestCommercialSalesDepartment,writeAATCC,P.O.Box12215,ResearchTrianglePark,NC27709.Anyotherdryerwhichisknowntogivecomparableresultsmaybeused.7AvailablefromTestfabrics,Inc.,P.O.DrawerO,Middlesex,NJ08846.

59

D204–02

71.Report

71.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerialorproductsampled,andthemethodofsamplingused.

71.2Reportthefollowinginformation:71.2.1Thetestoptionused,

71.2.2Thebrandnameandamountofdetergentused.71.2.3Thebrandnameandamountofbleachused,andthetype(chlorineornonchlorine).

71.2.4Numberofspecimenstested,

71.2.5AlterationinshadeofthethreadineachspecimenasthenotedgradeontheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeand

71.2.6StainingforeachmultifiberstripeoneachspecimenasthegradeontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.72.PrecisionandBias

72.1Precision—Aninterlaboratorytestandcalculationofcomponentsofvariancewasfelttobeinappropriatebecauseof

therestrictedanddiscontinuousratingscales,thenonlinearrelationshipsbetweenratingscalesandcolordifferenceunits,theincreasedvariabilityincolordifferenceunitsasthetruevalueoftheratingsdecrease,andtherestrictionofthedatafordegreesofstaining.Basedonthesereasonsandongeneralpracticeinthetrade,alotorconsignmentofsewingthreadisgenerallyconsideredashavingaratingthatissignificantlyworsethanaspecifiedvaluewhenaspecimenfromthelotorconsignmenthasaratingforchangeincolorthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeorfordegreeofstaining,aratingthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.

72.2Bias—Thisprocedureforgradingsewingthreadforchangeincolororfordegreeofstainingafterlaunderinghasnoknownbiasbecausethevaluescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

COLORFASTNESSTODRYCLEANING

73.Scope

73.1Thistestmethoddeterminesthealterationinshadeandofstainingbysewingthreadunderdrycleaningconditions.Thistestmethodisapplicabletosewingthreadmadefromnaturalorman-madefibers,ortocombinationsthereof.74.SummaryofTestMethod

74.1Sewingthread,incontactwithamultifibertestcloth,issubjectedtodrycleaning.ThealterationinshadeofthesewingthreadandthedegreeofstainingofthemultifibertestclotharegradedbyreferencetoAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeortheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale,asappropriate.75.SignificanceandUse

75.1Thistestmethodisnotnecessarilyusefulfortheevaluationofsewingthreadtobeusedfordecorativestitchingsuchasembroidery.

76.Apparatus

76.1TheapparatusshallbeasspecifiedinTestMethodsD2724.

76.2AATCCMultifiberTestFabricNo.10.

77.Sampling

77.1LotSample—Takeatrandomonecontainerfromadyelot.

77.2LaboratorySample—Takeatrandomonethreadholderfromthecontainer.

77.3TestSpecimens—Prepareonetestspecimenandonecontrolfromeachthreadholder.

78.PreparationofTestSpecimens

78.1A50mm(2in.)squareofNo.10multifibertestfabricshallbesewnwitha301stitchperpendiculartothestripesandcompletelyacrossthemultifiberfabricusingthesewingthread

10

tobetested.Thethreadneednotbeacontinuouslengthbutshouldnotbetakenfromthesameholder.Sewthreeparallellinesofstitchingspaced10mm(0.40in.)apartwiththefirstline15mm(5⁄8in.)fromthetestfabricedge.Stitchlengthshallbe8stitchesper25mm(8stitchesperinch)unlessotherwiseagreeduponbetweenthepurchaserandthesupplier.

78.2Preparetwospecimensfromeachthreadholderretain-ingoneforcomparisoninevaluatingthetestresults.79.Conditioning

79.1ConditionthesamplesasdirectedinSection6.80.Procedure

80.1DrycleanthespecimenasdirectedinProcedureforDrycleaningofTestMethodD2724,Sections10.1and10.3.80.2Repeatthedrycleaningprocedurethroughtwoaddi-tionalcyclesforatotalofthreecycles.81.Evaluation

81.1Gradeeachspecimenforchangeincolorfromthecontroltothenearestone-halfratingunitasdirectedinAATCCEvaluationProcedure1.

81.2Gradeeachspecimenforchangeindegreeofstainingfromthecontroltothenearestone-halfratingunitasdirectedinAATCCEvaluationProcedure3.82.Report

82.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerialorproductsampled,andthemethodofsamplingused.

82.2Reportthefollowinginformation:

82.2.1Numberofcyclesspecimensweretested,82.2.2Numberofspecimenstested,

D204–02

82.2.3AlterationinshadeofthethreadineachspecimenasthenotedgradeontheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChange,and

82.2.4StainingforeachmultifiberstripeoneachspecimenasthegradeontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.83.PrecisionandBias

83.1Precision—Aninterlaboratorytestandcalculationofcomponentsofvariancewasfelttobeinappropriatebecauseoftherestrictedanddiscontinuousratingscales,thenonlinearrelationshipsbetweenratingscalesandcolordifferenceunits,theincreasedvariabilityincolordifferenceunitsasthetruevalueoftheratingsdecrease,andtherestrictionofthedatafor

degreesofstaining.Basedonthesereasonsandongeneralpracticeinthetrade,alotorconsignmentofsewingthreadisgenerallyconsideredashavingaratingthatissignificantlyworsethanaspecifiedvaluewhenaspecimenfromthelotorconsignmenthasaratingforchangeincolorthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeorfordegreeofstaining,aratingthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.

83.2Bias—Thisprocedureforgradingsewingthreadforchangeincolororfordegreeofstainingafterwatermigrationhasnoknownbiasbecausethevaluescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

COLORFASTNESSTOWATERMIGRATION

84.Scope

84.1Thistestmethoddeterminesstainingbysewingthreadunderhomecareconditionssimilartothoseexperiencedwhenitemsareleftinawetstateforaspecifiedperiodoftime.Thistestmethodisapplicabletosewingthreadsmadefromnaturalorman-madefibers,ortocombinationsthereof.

85.SummaryofTestMethod

85.1Sewingthreadincontactwithamultifibertestclothislaunderedinhomelaundryequipmentandthenretainedinthewetstateforaspecifiedperiodoftime.ThedegreeofstainingofthemultifibertestclothisgradedbyreferencetotheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.

86.SignificanceandUse

86.1Thistestmethodisnotnecessarilyusefulforevaluat-inghighdensitydecorativestitchingsuchasembroidery.87.Apparatus

87.1AutomaticWashingMachine,5with“NormalSetting”agitatorspeedof7065cycles/min,washingtime12min,spinspeed500to510rpm,finalspincycle4min,andrinsetemperature4165°C(105610°F).

88.ReagentsandMaterials

88.1AATCCMultifiberTestFabricNo.10.788.2Bleachedcotton/polyester84/16terrycloth.788.3Testtubes,19mm(3⁄4in.)diameterwithstoppers.89.Sampling

89.1LotSample—Takeatrandomonecontainerfromadyelot.

89.2LaboratorySample—Takeatrandomonethreadholderfromthecontainer.

89.3TestSpecimens—Prepareonetestspecimenandonecontrolfromeachthreadholder.

90.PreparationofTestSpecimens

90.1A50mm(2in.)squareofNo.10multifibertestfabricshallbesewnwitha301stitchperpendiculartothestripesandcompletelyacrossthemultifiberfabricusingthesewingthread

11

tobetested.Thethreadneednotbeacontinuouslengthbutshouldnotbetakenfromthesameholder.Sewthreeparallellinesofstitchingspaced10mm(0.40in.)apartwiththefirstline15mm(5⁄8in.)fromthetestfabricedge.Stitchlengthshallbe8stitchesper25mm(8stitchesperinch)unlessotherwiseagreeduponbetweenthepurchaserandthesupplier.

90.2Preparetwospecimensfromeachthreadholderretain-ingoneforcomparisoninevaluatingthetestresults.

90.3Cutstripsof84⁄16cotton/polyesterterrycloth50mm(2in.)by150mm(6in.)equalinnumbertothatofthespecimenstobetested.

91.Procedure

91.1TreateachspecimenfortestingandthestripsofterryclothasdirectedinAATCCTestMethod143,exceptforthefollowing.Usea1.8kg(4lb)force.Usetemperaturecondi-tionsinTable5ofTestMethodsD204.Usenodetergentorbleach.Removetheloadfromthewasherimmediatelyattheconclusionofthefinalrinse.Separatethetestspecimensandterryclothstrips.

NOTE6—Multiplespecimenssewnwithlikeordifferentcolorsewingthreadscanusuallybetestedsimultaneouslysincenormallythemassofthetestspecimenswouldbesmallcomparedtothetotaltestload.

91.2Rolleachspecimeninaterryclothstripandinsertintoatesttube.Stopperthetesttubeandletstandfor4hatambienttemperature.

92.Evaluation

92.1Removethespecimensfromthetesttubesandimme-diatelygradeeachspecimenforchangeindegreestainingfromthecontroltothenearestone-halfratingunitasdirectedinAATCCEvaluationProcedure3.

93.Report

93.1StatethatthespecimensweretestedasdirectedinTestMethodsD204.Describethematerialorproductsampled,andthemethodofsamplingused.

93.2Reportthefollowinginformation:

93.2.1TestconditionsselectedfromTable5,93.2.2Numberofspecimenstested,

D204–02

93.2.3StainingfortheterryclothandforeachmultifiberstripeoneachspecimenasthegradeontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.

94.PrecisionandBias

94.1Precision—Aninterlaboratorytestandcalculationofcomponentsofvariancewasfelttobeinappropriatebecauseoftherestrictedanddiscontinuousratingscales,thenonlinearrelationshipsbetweenratingscalesandcolordifferenceunits,theincreasedvariabilityincolordifferenceunitsasthetruevalueoftheratingsdecrease,andtherestrictionofthedatafordegreesofstaining.Basedonthesereasonsandongeneral

practiceinthetrade,alotorconsignmentofsewingthreadisgenerallyconsideredashavingaratingthatissignificantlyworsethanaspecifiedvaluewhenaspecimenfromthelotorconsignmenthasaratingforchangeincolorthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCGrayScaleforColorChangeorfordegreeofstaining,aratingthatismorethanone-halfstepbelowthespecifiedratingontheAATCCChromaticTransferenceScale.

94.2Bias—NojustifiablestatementcanbemadeonthebiasofTestMethodsD204forgradingsewingthreadforchangeincolororfordegreeofstaining,sincethetruevaluescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.

PRECISIONANDBIAS

95.PrecisionandBias

95.1InterlaboratoryTestData8—Aninterlaboratorytestwasrunin1968inwhichrandomlydrawnsamplesoftwomaterialsweretestedfortwistbalance,diameterbythethicknessgageprocedure,andshrinkageineachoffivelaboratories.Eachlaboratoryusedtwooperators,eachofwhomtestedeightspecimensofeachmaterial.Aninterlabo-ratorytestwasrunin1972inwhichrandomlydrawnsamplesoftwomaterialsweretestedforlengthofeachofthreelaboratories.Eachlaboratoryusedtwooperators,eachofwhomtestedfivespecimensofeachmaterial.ThecalculatedcomponentsofvarianceexpressedasstandarddeviationsarelistedinTable3.

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Thisstandardissubjecttorevisionatanytimebytheresponsibletechnicalcommitteeandmustbereviewedeveryfiveyearsandifnotrevised,eitherreapprovedorwithdrawn.YourcommentsareinvitedeitherforrevisionofthisstandardorforadditionalstandardsandshouldbeaddressedtoASTMInternationalHeadquarters.Yourcommentswillreceivecarefulconsiderationatameetingoftheresponsibletechnicalcommittee,whichyoumayattend.IfyoufeelthatyourcommentshavenotreceivedafairhearingyoushouldmakeyourviewsknowntotheASTMCommitteeonStandards,attheaddressshownbelow.

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895.2Precision—ForthecomponentsofvarianceinTable3,twoaveragesofobservedvaluesshouldbeconsideredsignifi-cantlydifferentatthe90%probabilitylevelifthedifferenceequalsorexceedsthecriticaldifferencetabulatedinTable4.95.3Bias—Theseproceduresformeasuringtwistbalance,length,diameterandshrinkageofsewingthreadshasnoknownbiasbecausethetruevaluesofthosepropertiescanbedefinedonlyintermsofatestmethod.96.Keywords

96.1breakingstrength;strand;colorfastness;diameter;di-mensionalchange;length;sewingthread;textilestrand;twist;twistbalance;yarnnumber

12